The sky is blue and cloudless. My eyes are squinted from the sun shining directly at me as a soft breeze blows in my hair. With my left arm I grab the board and stride further towards where the tide comes in. My feet leave faint footprints in the sand until I reach the shoreline. I enclose the two ends of Velcro around my ankle and scout the scene.

I fully emerge my body into the salty water. The wetsuit keeps me unaware of how much colder the water really is. Hand and hand, arm and arm, I slowly begin paddling into the stretch of blue. It’s like continuously digging a hole that disappears. I make it over the waves, pushing through them as they pass. A giant one nearly crashes on me, however I dive under it. I resurface and hop back onto the board and regain control. The only thing that can be frustrating is that you are not always in control, the ocean is. Out of the blue, unexpected waves can appear, and currents can simply drift you away.

My arms are tired of fighting the current so I let it carry me. Far away I drift from where I started. I spot an array of dolphins leaping out of the waters close to me and catch glimpses of the odd schools of fish. I can see the waves rolling closer towards me, and see new ones form across the horizon. Calmly and slowly they approach as soft white peaks form and they finally crash. It’s only a matter of time until the perfect one comes. It soon draws closer to me and I begin to paddle, thrusting myself forward. At the right time, I push myself up and plant my feet on the board. The board tips and sways as speed builds up. I quickly regain my balance by readjusting my feet. I spread my arms wide out and feel the ocean’s spray burst into tiny water droplets among my face. It feels refreshing and relaxing. At the height of the moment I suddenly plunge downwards with the wave. I descend into the shallow waters, and my board tugs on my ankle. I get up and even so more determined to catch another one, more determined to improve. I think that if you have the chance, try surfing, it is a really unique experience. The adrenalin rushes to my brain and even after, the excitement never fades.